Which term describes the slowing and bending of progressive waves in shallow water?

Which term describes the slowing and bending of progressive waves in shallow water?

• A. Wave Refraction
• B. Wave Diffraction
• C. Wave Crest
• D. Wave Height

Answer: (A)

When progressive waves slow down as they enter shallower water, the front of the wave is no longer moving at the same speed along its entire length. Depth changes cause the wave speed to decrease, so the portion in shallow water slows while the part still in deeper water continues faster. This difference makes the wavefront tilt and bend, reorienting so the crests become more parallel to the coastline. That bending and realignment of the wavefront as it enters shallow water is called wave refraction. Diffraction would be about bending around obstacles or through openings, crest is simply the top of a wave, and height is the vertical distance from trough to crest rather than a process of directional change.

When progressive waves slow down as they enter shallower water, the front of the wave is no longer moving at the same speed along its entire length. Depth changes cause the wave speed to decrease, so the portion in shallow water slows while the part still in deeper water continues faster. This difference makes the wavefront tilt and bend, reorienting so the crests become more parallel to the coastline. That bending and realignment of the wavefront as it enters shallow water is called wave refraction.

Diffraction would be about bending around obstacles or through openings, crest is simply the top of a wave, and height is the vertical distance from trough to crest rather than a process of directional change.